All Caught Up!

So, the blog is completely caught up now! Whew! I guess rain storms while camping are good for something! 

Steve and I just want to say that we are having the most fabulous time and loving it all!...More than one of you has asked if we are about to kill each other yet. And I can happily and honestly say that we are the best team mates ever- we have adjusted to our new roles in traveling- I am the team photographer and lead navigator. Steve is the metro master, money handler, and the international charades master. We think about our family and friends a lot out here...We often have prolonged discussions regarding our future projects and endeavors...particularly dog or no dog? (We are constantly checking out other peoples dogs and debating size and fur texture.) Other hot topics: mountaineering or not? Piano in our house or guitars? Garden or grass? We even compare cars...there are many hours in transit and we end up discussing random things. Another future topic and much more urgent is India. The countdown to India is on...37 days. I’m going to need some chillers kb. STAT. Hahahaha! 

Florence

While in Cinque Terre we made room arrangements for Florence. We had our directions all laid out and finding the hotel was a smooth process. But why should things stay smooth? We arrive to the hotel only to be told the online booking company has overbooked them and we are redirected to another hotel. I was really upset because I thought this was a ploy and we would end up in some dingy dark hole. So, once again we are walking in the blistering heat with our packs on. Another new city with another new map. We locate the building and enter the hotel, again we are redirected- this time just up the stairs to the next hotel. Now I was really worried. The desk man gave us the lowdown and showed us to our room. It was a little tight for space but otherwise nice. We had luxury items- an air conditioner and a bathroom! Yes! But the first night we didn’t know how to use the AC and had to sleep with the window open and all the loud drunk people kept me awake. 

The markets in Florence were awesome! Leather vendors selling belts, cashmere lined gloves, fantastic jackets and of course purses! I decided I couldn’t leave Florence without a purse. The selection of styles and colors were endless. I fell in love with an oversized dark purple bag. Steve says you can fit a body in it. But I love it! I bargained with the vendor and got this work of art for 60 euro. I’ve named it “Pursis Maximus.” Steve bought himself a leather belt, but he hasn’t named it...One evening we were lured into a leather shop- Steve played along with the vendor and before we knew it he was trying on jackets. The first one they raved was “the latest Italian style” and I was desperately trying to make eye contact with Steve to warn him that he looked like a complete flamer in this shiny/tight/short leather jacket. I was laughing and imagined what shoes he would wear with that? What pants? It was FAR too Italian for my outdoorsy, unfashionable, laid back husband. The next jacket was amazing. It was a buffalo hide and it was casual yet perfect for my Steve! Oh how I wanted him to buy it! Then he said to the salesman “why don’t you find one for my wife” and the very first one he brought me was amazing! It was a dark brown fitted little bomber jacket with a cadet collar. It was so pretty. I felt like a sassy euro chick. The ensemble would have been complete with some high heels and a mo-ped. I even tried Pursis Maximus on with the jacket and they got along great. Steve suggested that I think about whether I really want a jacket and if I’d really wear it, so we left. Maybe he was right and my decision making skills were foggy from the fabulous smell and the soft feel of the leather. Then we went into another leather shop. Oh man. Once again I am overwhelmed and I am wearing “the one.” This time it had a little belt at the bottom and was just as sassy as the last. I needed to clear my head and sleep on it- sad to report I left another leather store without a jacket. However, I have had some time to consider the purchase and the logistics involved in sending one home (along with Maximus) and Steve and I will be shopping for my leather jacket in Rome.   

There are many museums in Florence. We decided to go to the Acadamia primarily to see Michaelango’s Statue of David. The room housing the statue was specifically built for it in the late 1800’s when it was relocated from the Piazza della Signora after being struck by lightening (a replica is in its place now). It was fabulous! Sometimes I wonder why things are called masterpieces- but not with this one! I remember my parents having a statue of David. I don’t know why they had it (a wedding gift?) I will have to ask about this...Strange how things in other parts of the world can stir up memories from your childhood in Elkford! Anyway, the Italians are mighty strict on enforcing a “no pictures, no video” policy in Museums and Galleries. We managed to get a little stealth footage of David anyway. We visited the Uffizi gallery as well. This one (like many others) claims to have the greatest collection of art in Europe. We saw works by Michaelangelo, Donatello, Bernini, and Bonachelli...They were all neat because we had seen them before- just not in real life. I liked them all more than the Mona Lisa :)

Finally, we went to the Galileo exhibits in the Science museum. This was my favorite. The displays showed tools and drawings early astronomers produced and used as they made discoveries about the solar system and the earth. It was unbelievable. There was a collection of tools used by Galileo himself. His telescope was on display. And his middle finger. Yup, Galileo’s middle finger was in a case. Apparently it was cut it off after his death. Its the same finger he wore that red ring on...

From Florence we had to make a big decision. Make a whirlwind trip to Venice or take our time getting to Rome? We decided on the latter and Venice will have to be seen another time. We are now in Siena and staying in a cabin type thing in a campground. There is a nice pool and a cafe. We enjoyed the pool on the hot day we got here and today it has been nothing but thunder and showers! We have met a friendly couple from Parksville who are brave enough to be RV’ing around Italy. They have offered us a ride to Rome and we will leave with them tomorrow morning. 

Pisa

We leave beautiful Cinque Terre and head south to Florence. We have to change trains in Pisa so we take this opportunity to go see the Leaning Tower. We stash our packs at the baggage storage service and leave the station. I’m thinking the tower will be neat but nothing super exciting. I was wrong! We came around the corner and suddenly there was a large cathedral and a white tower leaning. This Leaning Tower of Pisa is really leaning, not just a little bit, but a lot! It was captivating. Sometimes its the things you hear about, read about, or see in the movies that can grab your attention the most (this becomes very evident in the museums in Florence). There are hoards of tourists here. Steve joins the other tourists posing in the “I’m going to push the leaning tower up” stance. I can’t seem to get the alignment right and another tourist takes over for me. He does a decent job and Steve is happy to have this dorky photo (especially for you Tara!)

Cinque Terre

If anyone has ever been in a car with the temperature outside at least thirty degrees with no air conditioning and the windows rolled up for nearly two hours I know how you felt. We were more than relieved to get off this train and be in Monterosso. We went to the tourism office and the lady working there was very nice. We picked a hotel out of our travel book and she phoned them to see if they had room. We got a room and in the process met a couple of Americans from Seattle. We all set off for the hotel. I love how in Italy you ask for a “matrimonial” bed if you want a double bed...hahaha. Our room was large and had a big window that let in plenty of light. I think the sea-foam green decor was an au natural form of air conditioning because even without a fan or air conditioner the room actually felt cool. We wandered around the little town and peeked in some of the shops. I saw a dress that I had also seen in the market in Milan- however it was 25 more euros in Cinque Terre! We got some gelato and watched the sunset by the water. Later on we met up with the Americans for dinner. I really enjoyed strolling in the evenings- the air was so warm and the shops were so cute. We had some Limoncello samples at a shop selling liqueurs, wines, jams and honey. We then went for a drink at a local bar.

The next day Steve and I set out on the Cinque Terre trail. We should have left earlier because by 10am it was already hot out. The alloted time between the first two towns was 1h40mins. The terrain was up hill and up steps for sometime and then leveled off a little. Then all the elevation gain is lost when you enter the next town. The views were beautiful and we entered the next town of Vernazza hot and hungry. We went for a quick dip in the water and then had a piece of pizza. Looking at the map, we opted to take the train to the next town Corniglia as it was another long hike with elevation gain. From Corniglia we took the trail to Manarola- this is the Cinque Terre town that seems to represent the whole area- we walked around the corner and there it was in all its quaint, colorful, old world charm. The last leg of the trail took us through the famed tunnel of love and on to Riomaggiore. From here we took the train all the way back to Monterosso and went out for dinner and gelato with the Americans.

Our first taste of Italy!

We arrive at the bus terminal in Milan, except it doesn’t feel like we are in a city at all. We are somewhere on the outside of the city center and once again without a map. We use the metro map to guesstimate where we should go and at the same time follow the crowds. We end up right smack in the heart of Milan. We climb the stairs from the metro and are greeted with the massive Duomo. There is a huge square and people and pigeons everywhere. We find tourist information and get a map. I had researched a place to stay but couldn’t figure out how to book online. We had the address and in the smoking hot heat started to walk there. It was very hot. I can’t decide if its worse to be walking with my pack on in the heat or in the rain. Along the way we pass many three and four star hotels- and in Italy they charge the room per person. Its not 60 euro for a room, its 60 euro per person. Yikes. We finally get to the little place I found online only to find out its full. I was surprised by this because the day before it had rooms- but tourism season is among us now... Luckily though, we found a place just a few minutes down the street. The manager was hilarious and really helped us out with information and directions.

We showered and set out for our only night in Milan. We walked back to the main square. It was even more busy now- more people, more pigeons, artists, music, a low-key photo shoot, a loud protest with riot police on stand-by. Steve tired to punt some pigeons by luring them in with crumbs from his gelato cone. I thought we were going to fined or something because he was laughing like a mad man as he tried to kick the birds. I tried it too, but I just tapped them and it was gross feeling the feathers on my foot. I had read about a street market and after a long and diligent effort we had no luck finding it. We chose a little place for dinner on a pedestrian only street and watched the people go by. I read that Milan is a financial and fashion center. I don’t know about the financial stuff but the fashion was definitely flashy! Men and women, old and young, were completely put together. High heels (I study how they walk on all this cobblestone and it still baffles me), hats, jewelry, mini dresses, nothing makes you feel more like a grubby traveler than being in Milan! I don’t think people here need a reason to dress so flamboyantly-they just do it. Or maybe they do it because everyone does it. We passed by many designer shops but my favorite was a high end home decor store showing off bath tubs shaped like high heels! I thought of my city mom enjoying some wine and a dip in the gigantic shoe...

Anyway, during our dinner, two men (a turk and an aussie) were seated beside us. Personal space once again pushed to the limits as our tables were touching. We started chatting and they turned out to be editors for reality tv shows (Big Brother, Survivor, and some european shows). I was excited- could I be cast for Survivor!? Should I tell them my awesome new twist for the show? I played it cool. I’m pretty sure they were legit- especially after seeing them alongside Pamela Anderson and a bunch of other bay watch playboy bunny types on their camera. The aussie owns a restaurant and hotel in southern Turkey and spends a lot of time there. He gave us some great tips, warnings, and ideas for our visit there. The turk was more interested in how we could be traveling for nine months and had many questions for us...

Before leaving for the bus station we thought we would grab a little breakfast. We stepped out of the hotel to find the street outside transformed into a market! Yay! We strolled through the market and then sat for a cappuccino and orange juice with a croissant. I didn’t buy anything at the market but had a good time looking...We went back for our packs, headed to the train station and bought tickets for Cinque Terre.

Chamonix!

Chamonix was amazing! We rented a little chalet located below Mont Blanc and its Bossons Glacier. The chalet was a 15 minute hike from the train station but the air was fresh and the views were awesome. We spent a week hiking in the valley and taking in the Alps. For Stevie’s birthday I made him a Chocolate Fondant cake (from a box of course) and it was delicious! We didn’t realize that fondant is that kind of cake that is supposed to be gooey in the middle so at first we thought I didn’t cook it enough. We got out the computer and googled a bit and found this cake is supposed to be like that- then we ate it - hahahah! I got him a bottle of wine and an ice axe pen, he also bought himself a Millet climbing shirt (thanks Grandma Oliver). We thought we would do a day trip to Switzerland for his big day...we did get there, but not very far. We took the French train into Switzerland and had to switch trains at a station that was closed. The Swiss conductor said “You have cash money?” and we said “yes!” and we got on. Just before the train took off he came to sell us our tickets and said “50 euro” and we said “What?! 50 Euro? No way!” And then we jumped off the train and ran back to our French one. We didn’t realize this half hour ride would cost that much! If we were going to see the Matterhorn or something really interesting it may have been a different result, but the town we were going to only had a St. Bernard museum...we spent the day in Chamonix.

On anther occasion we went on hike to Lake Vert. The trails in Chamonix are well maintained and well marked. This one led up a green valley tightly squeezed between the mountains and the fields were dotted with houses that looked like coo coo clocks. It was a great hike with a fair amount of elevation gain, when we reached the lake we were shocked to see people walking around eating gelato, and then a large parking lot full of cars, motorbikes, and a tour bus! Turns out there is a paved road all the way up to the lake AND restaurant! It wasn’t a secluded little lake like we had imagined but more like Stanley Park- still enjoyed the adventure.

We were too early in the season for the chair lifts to be open for hikers and mountain bikers- there was still too much snow at 2000 meters. On our last day in Chamonix, we took the gondola up to the “Aguille de Midi” and reached 3842 meters!! The first half of the ride was speedy and every time we hit a pylon the cart would sway and rattle, as we approached the midway station at a speed I didn’t know gondola’s could even move at, we hit a pylon that was just too exciting and I let out a yelp- sometimes you just can’t contain the fear and excitement! We got off the cart and were at 2315 meters- 1.5 kms to go- vertically. Gulp. A load of ‘hell’s angles - holland’ got off the cart and I tried to get some stealth photo’s- I don’t know why...perhaps I was meant to be a spy :) Steve said the ones who wear the jackets are not the ones to worry about...but I figure its good spy practice anyways. The second gondola was much slower but much more vertical. As we approached the top it felt as though we had landed on another planet. It was icey, rocky and completely barren. The wind whistled like mad as we approached. We were struck by the cold as the doors slid open and the gondola swayed in the wind. We literally had to time our departure off the gondola due to the movement from the wind. We explored the many platforms to take in the extensive views of the alps. Some peaks were poking into the clouds and the Matterhorn was just out of site. The wind would occasionally die down and give us a reprieve, but when it was blowing it was so intense we were choking on our own words - same feeling as sticking your head out of a car window while cruising down the highway. And it was cold. Very cold. We kept ourselves tucked into our hoods and hands in pockets. We took an elevator through the rock to the final viewing platform. We could see mountaineers training on the glaciers, para-sailers below us in the valley, and the high risk skiers not willing to quit for the season. This is interesting too, skiing here is your own risk- there is no big news report when someone dies because they chose to take a risk. There are no investigations and there is zero threat to close lifts or restrict areas. Our host told us “50 people die every year here skiing.” Anyway, I got as many photo’s as I could but then the camera died! AGH!! I was really upset by this. The battery light had flashed at the bottom, but usually we have a good amount of time before it dies- I think the cold sped the process up. Steve tried to cheer me up and solve the problem by warming the battery in his armpit- but apparently there is no negotiating with lithium. Still an amazing day!

It was really a nice change to stay in the chalet and cook for ourselves. I loved strolling through the grocery store and buying local stuff. Not like I’m big into cooking or great in the kitchen (Something I want to change) but being on the road this long and not cooking or creating is getting to me. Steve is the opposite- he loves going out and hasn’t become tired of it. One night we went to a restaurant which from the outside appeared to be something like a burger stand. I ordered a skewer of meat that came with some rice and couscous salad. Steve wanted salmon. When the chef (who was also the waiter) took Steve’s order he rambled off a quick sentence filled with excitement and Steve just beamed and replied “Oui!!” The chef hurried off. I looked at my husband who was grinning away- “did he just say ‘Salmon Tar-tar...as in tar tar raw?”...Steve’s grin faded and he said “ all I heard was salmon.” He decided to go with it, be adventurous and not run after the waiter. I began to think that maybe I heard wrong- but when our orders came to the table Steve was served a raw hunk of salmon on salad- with caviar on top. Oh, and little piles of red and black caviar all around the plate. Steve describes the meal as “a good french experience, but I wouldn’t order it again.” The caviars were like fish flavored salt bombs. I felt bad for him for not getting any warm food for dinner and gave him most of my meat and half my delicious rice.

There is an 11km long highway tunneled through Mount Blanc connecting France to Italy. We took a bus through this tunnel and made our way to Milan.

La Rochelle to Lyon

We went to a giite in the West of France for our second “helping” project. We were in an isolated hamlet, population: 4. There were many projects to work on but we focused most of our energy on tearing down an old outhouse that was half concrete and paving a path in its place, clearing a space of land and planting a vegetable garden, and general weeding/clearing land. Steve spent some time working on mechanical things too. Our hosts were kind and shared plenty of wine and cheese and good meals with us. We took a train to the west coast for a weekend, staying in a town called La Rochelle. It was a long weekend and there was a redbull cliff diving competition taking place so finding a room took some time and effort. We went to one hotel only to find that they too were full, Steve asked to use the washroom and the service lady was reluctant but gave in (must have been his charm) as he was in the washroom, the lady found a room that had been reserved but the party hadn’t shown up- so we got the room! I was relieved! Good Karma strikes again. Steve discovered a new sandwich in La Rochelle- the “Super American” and from french we translated it to be a steak sandwich with sauce and fries. We were right, but the set up was unexpected as the fries were literally stuffed into the sandwich! Steve loved it. We finished up at the giite and caught a train to Lyon. We arrived at Lyon at 8pm, every hotel we went to in a two and a half hour time frame was ‘complet’- FULL!! It wasn’t a long weekend, but a week of spring break! Agh! I was secretly scoping out places to take cover for the night (under trees, stairwells, parking lots) and later Steve told me he was doing the same thing. Luckily, we struck gold! We got a room that was a bit pricey, but it came with a little kitchenette, so we were able to save money by not eating out much. We didn’t find a whole lot of things to see or do in Lyon (although just wandering the streets was interesting) so we followed the guide book and it recommended we see a famous antique coo coo clock in a local cathedral. We walked across the city to find the cathedral and found a small gathering of eager tourists around the clock in one of the chapels. The clock was massive and intricately designed with astrological signs and pagan symbols on the sides and front. At the top were figurines like Mary, Angels and probably Saints. We took a seat and waited. Four o’clock finally struck and the chapel went quiet as the clock started to coo coo. I wasn’t expecting fireworks or anything but it turned out to be a twenty second event with noisy untuned bells and barely any movement. At the end everyone sort of sat there as if that was just the warm up and the real show was about to begin. But nothing happened. Someone started clapping, so we all joined in with clapping and laughter.

Next stop: Chamonix!